An American’s observations of a first time trip to France.
It wasn’t too long ago that the idea of driving in Europe was on par with sky diving; everything is in a language I don’t understand, how do you get gas (in the usual manner?), the driving habits and traffic laws are different, maybe the roads are bad (immaculate actually, especially when compared to California roads which resemble the surface of the moon), all the cars are manual transmission (not true), and hell, maybe they drive badly (there are few places that harbor more horrible drivers than my home state of California). A lot of different ways to rationalize my cowardice.
Our first road trip was in Spain and the results were, well, mixed. No problems at all while we were on the highways. Stopping to get gas at the Spanish version of a travel center was a fun experience. The difficulties arose when we entered the villages where, for some reason, I was surprised that 12th century roads weren’t built for cars – especially cars driven by Americans who are used to roads that can accommodate the oversized and butt ugly Tesla Cybertruck (aka the swasticar).
Who but an American would think that there’s a parking lot in the center of a town that was built while Chaucer was busy writing The Canterbury Tales? After all, in America it’s not improbable that the city council of a historic town would green light the razing of 18th century history to make room for a strip mall or “affordable” housing. If Americans can be so cavalier about history, why would I expect the Spaniards to be different?
So just before we got to Caceres, a city founded by the Romans in 25 BCE, I gave the order to Google Maps, “set sail for the Plaza Major” (which was built in the 16th century). It was a harrowing journey getting there and once in the plaza, we couldn’t get out. That is until a friendly, if likely annoyed, minion of the law led us out. Later that same day I managed to put a dent and a sizable scratch in our rented Mercedes.
With our patience spent, and our stress levels and blood pressures redlining, Cora and I erupted into an argument over the idea of cutting the trip short, torching the Mercedes (or at least returning it to the nearest agency), taking the train to Barcelona and getting the hell back to the land of Hummers and broad plains of concrete.
In the end, reason prevailed, we continued the road trip and once in Barcelona dumped the car at the airport rental agency and used public transit. (The bill for repairing the Mercedes was a surprisingly low $300 dollars).
Two years later, we rented a smaller car in Vienna, and drove through Bavaria before leaving the car at the airport in Munich, and then taking advantage of public transportation. By the time we decided on a French road trip we’d learned our lessons.
Except for getting slapped with a penalty for not paying a toll levied between Paris and Normandy in a timely enough manner, driving in France was largely problem free. I wasn’t crazy about the many ways you can get hit with a speeding ticket in France (especially after having driven the Autobahn where speed is not a thing), and the “priorité à droite” (priority to the right) regulation that gives the right of way to drivers approaching an unmarked intersection from the right. PSA – before you drive in another country watch some YouTube videos.
After leaving Normandy, our stays included stops in Trebeurden, and Gouesnach in Brittany, and Tours in the Loire Valley. These were our temporary homes, bases of operations, from where we took day trips to local points of interest.
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