Banner photo: The morning sun shines off the Manhattan skyline. Taken from Pier One, Brooklyn.
Six twenty in the morning and the runway lights are lit: blues, greens, flashing reds, and yellow direction markers. When I was a kid I thought they were the coolest thing ever. I still do. Mesmerized as the jet rumbles towards the runway before takeoff to New York City.
Throughout the flight, the plane is as dark as a tomb. Is it some new form of etiquette that all the window blinds are left down? What’s the use of the window seat if some new air travel correctness says you can’t look out the window? And just who came up with this bad idea?
Inflight coffee. Almost as bad as Nescafé but it’s a necessity on an early morning flight.
A Jason Statham movie. Oh look, a surprise plot. Jason plays the retired special ops operative. He was once the most lethal member of Her Majesty’s Army but now he’s just looking for a peaceful life as a recluse. Alas, trouble finds him and he’s compelled to kill scores of bumbling active duty special ops soldiers, none of whom can shoot straight. Gratuitous violence, the girl is saved, the corrupt government officials are foiled and
the dog dies.
Whaddya mean the fucking dog dies?
Damn it, I hate it when the dog dies. Why isn’t “the dog dies” included, in bold gigantic red letters, in the content warnings?
More inflight coffee.
Labored through more of Crime and Punishment. I started it because it’s one of those classics that they (whoever they are) say you must read to make your life culturally complete. The problem is, it’s just a treadmill of a story (Halfway through the book I cut my losses and deleted it from my phone. Color me culturally deficient).
More inflight coffee and one pack of the usual American Airlines cello wrapped biscotti. They’re really pretty good. I could eat a box of these. And dipping them into the coffee makes the swill taste slightly less like dishwater.
Wheels down.
The clicks of a hundred unbuckling seatbelts and moments later
the “fasten seatbelt” sign is turned off.
The jetway ejects the passengers. A file of automatons march in mindless obedience to the overhead signs that direct them to baggage claim. They make their way, benumbed and spiritless, as if programmed, through concourses, up and down escalators, and around countless turns to arrive – finally – at baggage claim.
At JFK it’s a trek, and by the time we’ve arrived at the carousel our bags have been offloaded and placed in a line, waiting like faithful puppies to be picked up.
Deprogramming happens when you have to figure out how best to get to your hotel.
Given the current state of air travel I’m not sure if it’s a good thing that in my younger days I experienced the “golden age” of air travel. Sometimes ignorance is bliss.
Depending on where I’ve landed, my financial mileage has varied when it comes to taking transportation from the airport. Before we step out of the terminal and into the fray I’ve asked Google which is preferable, cabs or rideshares.
Since cabs, the authentic ones, are bound to charge a flat rate, and they don’t add surge pricing, Google advises taking a cab from JFK to Manhattan.
The myth is dead. The one about New York cab drivers taking rubes for a scenic ride around the boroughs in order to fluff up the meter. Legit drivers are required to charge a flat $70.00. After taxes, tolls, and possible congestion and rush hour surcharges it’s maybe $80.00. After the tip it’s about $95.00. That is unless you’re a cheap, soulless fuck and you have no compunction about stiffing a workin’ man.
A yellow cab is as much a part of popular New York lore as lox and bagels, so it just feels right to take a cab. The scene would be complete if the driver, with a cigarette dangling from his mouth and wearing a flat cap, greeted us in a wiseguy Bronx accent with, “where to, Mac?” I guess I’ve watched too many movies. No schmag, no flat cap, and the accent isn’t Bronx. I’m guessing West African. Points for the Yankees cap though.
I take rideshares when it’s cheaper or necessary but I’m still more partial to cabs. The cabbies are blue collar guys who patiently waited to get their medallions, then put in the long hours and longer miles, only to have the rideshares muscle in – often bending regulations during the early days of Uber.
According to Gemini there are 13,587 licensed taxis in New York City. They’re ubiquitous. So much so that 13,000 has got to be a gross undercount. In the FiDi it seems like every other car is a yellow New York City taxi. On our way to the Museum of Modern Art, I glance down 6th Avenue to see a yellow train; cabs lined up bumper to bumper to bumper waiting for fares.


By contrast, in San Francisco the taxi is becoming extinct. Sadly, in San Francisco, the number of Waymo robotaxis will soon eclipse licensed yellow cabs. Within the stark cold gravitational pull of Silicon Valley progress is measured by human jobs lost to machines.
We’re staying at Club Quarters, a hotel on Washington Street just a short walk to the Trade Center. There’s construction all around. A building site is right across the street and I’m happy that construction hasn’t yet begun.
I selected Club Quarters because it offers kitchenettes. Not because we plan on cooking – we don’t – but because the kitchenette units are more spacious than most standard New York City rooms, which typically don’t have enough room to swing a cat, much less open your suitcase.
It’s not an auspicious start. When we walk in, the first thing that hits me is a funky odor. Also the carpet just outside of the bathroom is damp. We do have an unobstructed view of
the side of the building just across the alley.
During our first night we’re reminded that our room is right next to the elevator. It wouldn’t be any more noisy if we were bedded down next to the tracks at the Wall Street subway station.
In the end it works out. Next day the odor is gone, the carpet is dry (maybe some spillage from housekeeping mopping the bathroom), and the front desk has offered to change our room. We’re keeping the room. After the first full day we’re so tired that the elevator is no more annoying than a gurgling creek and crickets near a mountain cabin. The view?
Well, it’s the view.
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