“Travel is not a reward for working, it’s education for living.” ~ Anthony Bourdain
We hit the first traffic of any consequence on the eastern fringes of Quimper. Quimper advertises itself as a village, but with a population of 64,000, I feel l have to call connerie (bullshit) on that description. Maybe, small city with a quaint old section that dates back to the Middle Ages would be more forthright.
The area was originally settled during the Roman era. By the late 5th century the settlement became a bishopric. Bishopric; that bring a memory from the haze of ages past. It’s a term that’s been rotting undisturbed in the deepest, dankest, cobwebbed dungeon of my mind, a thing from a college course on the Early Middle Ages and quickly banished to the catacombs of my subconscious the moment I laid my completed final exam on the professor’s desk.
Simply put a bishopric was a territory ruled under the secular and spiritual leadership of a bishop. It’s something on the current wish list of American Christian Nationalists – that is, as long as the bishop is an evangelical who has a preference for folks containing a minimum amount of melanin. But that’s for a different discussion.
Old town Quimper is on my list of places to visit, but with stops along the way from Trebeurden the drive has been long, and I’m not up for spelunking into the historic town center and navigating what is apparently rush hour traffic Maybe another time. Maybe not. One thing I’ve learned about travel, particularly in Europe, is that you can’t see everything. It’s a lesson learned from exhausting and, in the end, unsatisfying experiences.
After leaving Trebeurden we took a quick trip to revisit the Pink Granite Coast, stopping at Ploumanac’h along the way.

At the Côte de Granit Rose we passed plenty of hikers along the lightly rolling trails that wind along the shoreline. Nearly every person we encountered greeted us with a smile, a wave and a cheerful, “Bonjour.” God, I love the French.


An hour’s drive on the E-50 took us past villages and country scenes towards our next stop, Château de Kerjean. (During this drive we make a brief stop at the village of Bodilis detailed in a previous post – link here)











